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- May 10, 2024
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scrilla
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Need some assistance identifying the proper lug nuts for these wheels if anyone can help? Best I can tell from the marks on the back, CPC stamp, so maybe older Alcoa wheels? Do I just need 60 degree conical? Or are they supposed to use a flat/shank style? Thanks for any help.
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- May 10, 2024
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scott2093
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scrilla said:
Need some assistance identifying the proper lug nuts for these wheels
afaik you get the lug nuts specific to your vehicle. It's the wheel studs that are important. So look up lug nuts for your vehicle/front axle if not stock and pick your poison. Maybe M14- 1.50
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someotherguy
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I don't think those are Alcoas - most of the ones I've seen are forged wheels; the ones you have there appear to be cast. There were several brands offered in that style.
The wheel has as much to do with lug nut choice as the wheel stud does. The stud size and threads matter, yes, and the seat style of the lug matters - which is dictated by the wheel!
It's a little hard to tell from the pics but it *looks* like those wheels take a mag style lug, in other words a shank lug with a washer. I don't see a conical seat in the pic, but again, it's hard to tell from here. It should be very apparent to you looking at it in person whether it's conical seat or not. Shank style lugs require a larger hole in the wheel than the wheel stud so the shank of the lug can engage inside the hole.
Richard
- May 10, 2024
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scrilla
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After some more poking around, seems a lot of companies made wheels like this. Some were shank/flat style, others conical. From what I can tell there is a pronounced bevel where a conical lug nut would seat, so I think that's what these would take. Eagle Alloys seemed to be a popular manufacturer of the "580" style wheel. Better pic of the stamp on the wheel.
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Frank Enstein
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How large is the hole where the stud goes through and how thick is the wheel at that point?
What vehicle are they going on?
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Road Trip
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someotherguy said:
The wheel has as much to do with lug nut choice as the wheel stud does. The stud size and threads matter, yes, and the seat style of the lug matters - which is dictated by the wheel!
It's a little hard to tell from the pics but it *looks* like those wheels take a mag style lug, in other words a shank lug with a washer. I don't see a conical seat in the pic, but again, it's hard to tell from here. It should be very apparent to you looking at it in person whether it's conical seat or not. Shank style lugs require a larger hole in the wheel than the wheel stud so the shank of the lug can engage inside the hole.
Richard
Hello @scrilla,
Thanks to the used car factory I've had to sort this kind of thing out more often than not.
Therefore, I second Richard's comments on your setup. From way over here it looks like somebody
substituted conical style wheel nuts where your wheels are expecting 'mag style' shank & washer.
(See attachments for pics of both styles.)
In English, you can't necessarily go by a bevel in the relatively soft aluminum, for this may have
been created purely by the ill-advised fastener substitution by a PO.
But I would encourage you to get that setup sorted out, for when a wheel & fastener system is
mixed & matched like that I've seen it where the stuff backs off without warning and adds unnecessary
drama to your life -- usually at the exact wrong time. Given the way that 1st photo looked, I'd try a
test fit of a single mag style nut (in the right thread size) and see if that doesn't feel a lot less janky
than what you got. As a side benefit, it should look better as well.
EDIT: I can't really figure out what's right. If you have a favorite tire store that you frequent,
swing by and see what they have to say. This see this stuff day in and day out, so they might
know off the top of their head what this aftermarket combo needs in order to be right.
Best of luck sorting this out. Let us know what the final fix that you come up with.
Cheers --
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scrilla
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Thanks all for the input. I had the same thought that over years of PO use with the wrong nuts could have created the bevel I can see/feel in the bolt hole. I will measure the hole diameter where the wheel stud passes through, but from my first test fit, the wheel stud is snug in the hole. To answer the question about vehicle fitment, I'd like to put these on my 1994 k1500 suburban. I believe the stock nut is m14 1.5. I did grab a m14 1.5 shank/washer lug nut from my local auto store for a couple bucks to test and it is by far too large in every way to fit the wheel.
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From what I've read about some Toyota wheels, they use m12, which would be a narrower wheel stud, so maybe these were originally designed for that format? Would replacing the wheel studs w/m12 be an option to accommodate the proper shank/flat lug nuts? That would be something I could easily test out with grabbing a stud and nut from the part store and test them in the wheel without much effort. Would a m12 wheel stud be a compromise on a k1500? I have read the c1500(2wd) uses m12. I'll definitely take the advice and run one of the wheels by a local tire shop for their opinion on the style of lug nut they think the wheel should be fitted with.
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scrilla
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Been doing some more digging on this. From what I read, Toyota mag seat stock nuts have an 18mm shank diameter. I just calipered the bolt hole diameter on the wheels and it measures 15mm. This tells me that these couldn't be used with a shank style nut for OEM Toyota because that associated lug nut wouldn't fit either.
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I found that Eagle made some wheels in this style, that were aluminum, but called for conical seats. Could it be these are the same, not requiring mag seats at all?
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- May 10, 2024
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Caman96
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I wasn’t implying that you should use Toyota lug nuts. Just that they were the type.
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